Answer by Dana K
Psychology of Surfing??? That is going to be so easy for you. All sport is "controlled risk taking". Controlled risk taking is good for children because it prevents them from engaging in "uncontrolled risk taking" like criminal behavior, drug abuse, or irresponsible sex. "Controlled risk taking" means that although you can get hurt, you usually can anticipate the amount of hurt you will suffer. "Uncontrolled" risk taking is a fools' behavior b/c it can ruin your life. Surfing is a man against nature deal - not man against man like f'ball, b'ball, or whatever, not man against himself (like golf). Don't get me wrong, surfing can be a very dangerous sport - but the risks are generally known. Surfing is accepting a challenge that is created by the nature (the weather) - it's a "because it was there" kind of thing (like climbing mount Everest). The rewards from Surfing are completely different that man-vs.-man sports. All a surfer can ever really say is "I am very good at what I do" or "I surf with other really good surfers". No surfing competitor (except a dork) would say something liek "I can beat you" (like basketball players do). Did you see "Into the Wild"? The psychology of surfing is that kind of thig: people do it mainly so that they themselves know what their limits are NOT so they can tell somebody else "I am beter than you". It is much the same psychology as sailing. So there you have a psych topic: why do man against nature sports (like surfing or any "extreme" sport) appeal to some people but other people want to play competitive sports. What is it about people psychologically that they desire to excell at competition with nature and do not desire to compete toe to toe with their friends? You can't "cheat" at surfing can you? You can't ignore the boundaries or take shortcuts - it's just not possible. So what is it about people who chose a sport where it is impossible to cheat? There is a certain admirable honesty to it no?
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